Holes and gaps in the upper layers
To preserve the plastic, most 3D printed parts are created with a hollow interior. For example, the interior of work can have a 30% occupancy, which means that 30% of the interior is plastic. While the inside of the piece may be hollow, the outside must be solid. To achieve this, many software allows you to determine how many layers of plastic you want on the top and bottom of the printed part. The rest in the middle would be printed as a hollow layer. This technique can save a significant amount of plastic and printing time while creating very strong parts.
The plastic coming out of the extruder melts between 190 and 240 degrees Celsius. While the plastic is still hot, it can quickly form into various shapes. However, as it cools, it quickly becomes solid and retains its shape. The right balance between temperature and cooling must be achieved so that the plastic can go freely through the nozzle, but it can also be hardened quickly to maintain the same dimensions. If this balance is not achieved, print quality problems can be noticed when the exterior of the print is not as precise and defined as expected. In the case of temperature, you should try to reduce the temperature from 5 to 10 degrees. As for too fast printing, which affects the quality, it is necessary to adjust in the software “Speed Overrides”, i.e. to reduce the printing speed for small layers to provide enough time for cooling and hardening before printing the next layer.
Separation of layers during printing
3D printing works by building an object layer by layer in a certain amount of time. Each successful layer is printed on top of the previously formed layer, and finally, the desired 3D object is formed. However, in order for the end part of being strong and reliable, care must be taken that each layer is adequately glued to the layer below. If the layers do not stick well, the end object can be separated in a certain part. It is necessary to adjust so that the height of the layer is not too great. Most 3D printing nozzles are between 0.3-0.5mm in diameter. Plastic comes out of the nozzle of these dimensions in order to make a certain object. For example, if you have a 0.4mm knife, you cannot adjust the layer height to 0.32mm, because each layer will not be adequately glued to the previous layer. It is necessary to reduce the height of the layer in order for the layers to stick together. Hot plastic will stick better than cold plastic. If the layers still do not stick together, and you are sure that the height of the layers is set correctly, then it is possible that the filament must be extruded at a higher temperature. If you print ABS at 190 degrees, you will notice that the layers will break easily. This is because ABS is printed at a temperature of around 220-235 degrees to create a strong bond between the layers of the printed object.
Blockage of the extruder
3D printers melt large amounts of plastic during their lifetime. All the plastic comes out of a small hole that is as big as a grain of sand. However, it is normal for a problem to occur and for the plastic not to come out of the nostril hole. These shortcomings are due to the existence of something in the nostril that blocks the plastic from passing freely. When that problem occurs, the first thing to do is manually push the plastic into the extruder. Before that, it is necessary to adjust and wait for the extruder to reach the operating temperature. In many cases, this extra power is enough for the filament to overcome the current problem in the extruder. If the filament still does not move, it is necessary to remove the filament from the extruder with a prior check of the operating temperature of the extruder. If the plastic could not be extruded through the nozzle, then it is necessary to clean the nostril before use. Some of the procedures are heating the extruder to 100 degrees and manually removing the filaments.
Termination of releasing plastic in the middle of the press
If the filament came out of the nostril regularly at the beginning of the press but was suddenly interrupted, there are several things that can cause the problem. The lack of filament is one of the more obvious things, so it is necessary to check if the filament still goes through the extruder to the nozzle, and if it does not go, then add a new filament. During printing, the extruder motor constantly rotates to push the filament to the nozzle. If you try to print too fast or drop too much plastic, the engine extruder may brake, and the filament does not move. One of the next problems is the clogging of the extruder. If this happens in the middle of the press, it is necessary to check that the filament is clean because dirty filament can cause deposits that collect in the nozzle and prevent further passage of the filament. The extruder motor must work hard during printing. He is constantly turning back and forth. These fast movements require specific needs, and if the printer electronics do not have enough cooling, they can cause the extruder motor to overheat. These motors have thermal interruptions that will make them stop if too high a temperature occurs. If this happens, the X and Y axes of the motor will rotate and move the extruder head, but the extruder motor will not move at all. The only way to solve this problem is to turn off the printer and allow the electronics to cool. It is also possible to add additional fans if the problem persists.